Rasing and Lowering Link Instructions
Time: 15 minutes with helper, 15 to 30 minutes by yourself
Tools: 14mm box wrench, 17mm socket and ratchet, a torque wrench, helper (optional, but handy).
1. Place the bike on it's centerstand. If you don't have a center stand support the tail of the bike from above (e.g., straps from shop crane or strong beam).
Note: If you are installing raising links (not lowering), you may need to have the bike elevated a little more than the center stand allows before you pull the links out. This will make it easier to install the raising links. A 3/4" piece of plywood or similar under the center stand will do.
Tools: 14mm box wrench, 17mm socket and ratchet, a torque wrench, helper (optional, but handy).
1. Place the bike on it's centerstand. If you don't have a center stand support the tail of the bike from above (e.g., straps from shop crane or strong beam).
Note: If you are installing raising links (not lowering), you may need to have the bike elevated a little more than the center stand allows before you pull the links out. This will make it easier to install the raising links. A 3/4" piece of plywood or similar under the center stand will do.
2. Hold the bolts (#14 & #9) from the left side with a 14 mm wrench. Using a 17mm socket, loosen the lock nuts (#11 & #16) on the right side.
3. With the lock nuts have been removed pull off the right-side link (#13).
4. Tap the two bolts toward the left side of the bike.
Note: The rear wheel will not be under tension from the suspension. It is an easy matter to lift the rear wheel slightly by hand to releive pressure on the bolts. Doing so allows the bolts to be easily pulled out by hand.
5. Remove the left side link leaving the bushings in place.
The picture below shows the stock links (above) and the custom links (below).
3. With the lock nuts have been removed pull off the right-side link (#13).
4. Tap the two bolts toward the left side of the bike.
Note: The rear wheel will not be under tension from the suspension. It is an easy matter to lift the rear wheel slightly by hand to releive pressure on the bolts. Doing so allows the bolts to be easily pulled out by hand.
5. Remove the left side link leaving the bushings in place.
The picture below shows the stock links (above) and the custom links (below).
6. Install the left side link by inserting the upper bolt through the link into the upper bushing.
7. Lift the rear wheel until the bottom hole of the link and bottom bushing align, then insert the lower bolt.
8. Place the right side link in place and install lock nuts.
9. The shop manual specifies 56.5 lb-ft (78 N-m) of torque for the lock nuts. Temporary Loctite (blue) is an option.
7. Lift the rear wheel until the bottom hole of the link and bottom bushing align, then insert the lower bolt.
8. Place the right side link in place and install lock nuts.
9. The shop manual specifies 56.5 lb-ft (78 N-m) of torque for the lock nuts. Temporary Loctite (blue) is an option.
After Installing the Links
If you have rasied the rear end make sure your front fork tubes are in the stock position (i.e., fork tubes fully inserted into the top triple clamp).
If you have lowered the rear end you may want to lower the front end as well. On a V-strom, interference can start after raising the front fork tubes 15 mm depending on several fators including terrain, riding style, and equipement installed.
Note: If you have a pre-2012 ABS model and have installed a fork brace I recommend not lowering the front end due to potential interference issues.
If you have lowered the rear end you may want to lower the front end as well. On a V-strom, interference can start after raising the front fork tubes 15 mm depending on several fators including terrain, riding style, and equipement installed.
Note: If you have a pre-2012 ABS model and have installed a fork brace I recommend not lowering the front end due to potential interference issues.