DL800 Foot Peg and Control Lowering Kit Installation
Brake Side Kit Parts
These are the brake side parts.
Upper Left - Rear Brake Master Cylinder Support
It uses an M6 x 12 button head bolt and M6 Nylock nut.
Lower Left is coupling nut and M8 x 1.25 x 25 mm set screw to extend the brake actuation rod.
The lower right is the main right foot peg lowering bracket. It uses to M8 x 1.25x 25 mm flat head screws.
Upper right is a simple 1" spacer for the master cylinder mounting bracket Part #19. This spacer uses one of the bolts left over from installing the gearshift lowering bracket and bolt #23 as shown in the Suzuki parts diagram below.
Upper Left - Rear Brake Master Cylinder Support
It uses an M6 x 12 button head bolt and M6 Nylock nut.
Lower Left is coupling nut and M8 x 1.25 x 25 mm set screw to extend the brake actuation rod.
The lower right is the main right foot peg lowering bracket. It uses to M8 x 1.25x 25 mm flat head screws.
Upper right is a simple 1" spacer for the master cylinder mounting bracket Part #19. This spacer uses one of the bolts left over from installing the gearshift lowering bracket and bolt #23 as shown in the Suzuki parts diagram below.
Gearshift Side Kit Parts
Upper Left is an M6x 1.0 x 25mm coupling nut and set screw for the Gearshift actuation rod.
Upper right is replacement for Part #20 in the Suzuki Parts Diagram. It lowers the gear shift 1" and moves forward 1/4". It is comprised of two pieces a plate and an extension arm that his held in place with two M6 x 18 flathead screws.
The nut is an M10 x 1.25 Jam Nut. It is used on the back of the plate to further secure the gear shift pin the gear shift rotates on.
The M8 x 1.25 Flathead screw replaces one the lowest of the three M8 bolts (Part #22) removed from part #20. The extra factory bolt will be reused for the left side 1" extension for part #19.
Lower center is the left side foot peg lowering block, a M8 x 1.25 x 55mm bolt, two washers and an M8 Nylock nut.
Upper right is replacement for Part #20 in the Suzuki Parts Diagram. It lowers the gear shift 1" and moves forward 1/4". It is comprised of two pieces a plate and an extension arm that his held in place with two M6 x 18 flathead screws.
The nut is an M10 x 1.25 Jam Nut. It is used on the back of the plate to further secure the gear shift pin the gear shift rotates on.
The M8 x 1.25 Flathead screw replaces one the lowest of the three M8 bolts (Part #22) removed from part #20. The extra factory bolt will be reused for the left side 1" extension for part #19.
Lower center is the left side foot peg lowering block, a M8 x 1.25 x 55mm bolt, two washers and an M8 Nylock nut.
Gear Shift Side Instructions
Gear Shift Side
1. Remove the plastic cover using a 5 mm Allen wrench.
Important read entire next step before completing.
2. Examine Part #45, Gear shift link rod. Note that it has two flats on it soi that it may be held with a wrench. Place a wrench on the rod to hold it while loosening the cinch nut, Part #35. Just break the nut part #35 loose. Do not turn it more than necessary to break the parts loose. This preserves the adjustment from the factory and eases installation by reducing adjustments post installation.
1. Remove the plastic cover using a 5 mm Allen wrench.
Important read entire next step before completing.
2. Examine Part #45, Gear shift link rod. Note that it has two flats on it soi that it may be held with a wrench. Place a wrench on the rod to hold it while loosening the cinch nut, Part #35. Just break the nut part #35 loose. Do not turn it more than necessary to break the parts loose. This preserves the adjustment from the factory and eases installation by reducing adjustments post installation.
3. Remove Part # 33, Gear Shift Lever Bolt.
4. Remove the bolts (Part #22) and remove Guard Footrest Bracket Part #20.
5. Using two of the three M8 x 1.25 x 20 mm removed above (Part #22) in the upper two holes, secure the new gear shift lowering plate. Us ethe new M8 x 20 flathead screw in the lower plate hole. Save the third unused factory M8 x 1,25 x 20 bolt (part #22) for the brake side.
4. Remove the bolts (Part #22) and remove Guard Footrest Bracket Part #20.
5. Using two of the three M8 x 1.25 x 20 mm removed above (Part #22) in the upper two holes, secure the new gear shift lowering plate. Us ethe new M8 x 20 flathead screw in the lower plate hole. Save the third unused factory M8 x 1,25 x 20 bolt (part #22) for the brake side.
6. Insert the M6 set screw into the coupling nut using a 3 mm Allen wrench. Completely unscrew the gear shift rod Part #45 and screw the new M6 coupling nut to increase the gear shift rod 25 mm (1"). Tighten the coupling nut, gear shift rod, and cinch nut.
7. Screw the new M10 x 1.25 Jam nut onto the back of the new gear Shift plate. Use temporary thread lock on this but (e.g., blue Loctite).
8. Remove the E-ring (Part #28) and clevis pin (Part #26) to remove the foot peg (Part #8).
9. Install the new left foot peg lowering block using the pin and clip removed in step 8 above.
9. Install the new left foot peg lowering block using the pin and clip removed in step 8 above.
Need photo of lowering block with pin installed
DO NOT TORQUE THE BOLT IN THIS NEXT STEP
10. Install the left factory footpeg into the lowering block using the M8 x 1.25 x 55 mm bolt. Not the bolt is installed from the bottom up so that the footpeg rotates on a smooth unthreaded surface. A washer goes between the bolt head and the lowering block and between the lowering block and M8 Nylock nut.
This is very important. Once installed this bolt acts as a stressed part of the footpeg mount. It limits flex of the mounts lower side. It should only be tight enough that there is no play while imparting no force on the block.
This is very important. Once installed this bolt acts as a stressed part of the footpeg mount. It limits flex of the mounts lower side. It should only be tight enough that there is no play while imparting no force on the block.
11. Check height of gear shift lever and adjust the gear shift rod length as necessary.
Brake Side
1. Remove the plastic cover using a 5 mm Allen wrench.
2. Remove Guard Foot Rest Bracket (Part #19) by removing M8 bolt Part #23.
2. Remove Guard Foot Rest Bracket (Part #19) by removing M8 bolt Part #23.
3. Remove the rear master cylinder bolts Part #11.
Important read entire next step before completing.
4. Examine jam nut (Part #7) and yoke (Part #5) in the diagram above. Hold the yoke and nut with wrenches and just break the two loose. Do not turn it more than necessary to break the parts loose.
Unscrew the yoke without moving the position of the nut in order to save the factory adjustment. The coupling nut is exactly the length needed to extend the brake master cylinder actuation rod.
5. Using a breaker bar or long ratchet with a M6 Allen, remove M8 bolts Part #24.
4. Examine jam nut (Part #7) and yoke (Part #5) in the diagram above. Hold the yoke and nut with wrenches and just break the two loose. Do not turn it more than necessary to break the parts loose.
Unscrew the yoke without moving the position of the nut in order to save the factory adjustment. The coupling nut is exactly the length needed to extend the brake master cylinder actuation rod.
5. Using a breaker bar or long ratchet with a M6 Allen, remove M8 bolts Part #24.
5. Install the new main right side foot peg lowering bracket from the kit using the two new M8 x 1.25 x 25 mm flat head screws. Use thread lock on the bolts and make tight or torque to 21 foot pounds.
I need a photo of just the main right bracket screwed into place.And a seperate phto of just Part #15 bolted in place on the lowering bracket without factory Bracket #19.
6. Using the two original factory bolts (Part #24) install the foot rest bracket (Part # 15) on the new main lowering bracket.
7. Reinstall the Guard Foot Rest Bracket (Part #19) using the factoryM8 bolt Part #23 in the same bracket hole it came out of screwed into the threaded hole of the new simple 1" spacer.
8. Use the left over M8 bolt (part #22) from the bottom of left side Part #20 to secure the new simple 1" spacer to the frame.
8. Use the left over M8 bolt (part #22) from the bottom of left side Part #20 to secure the new simple 1" spacer to the frame.
Note: There is not enough slack for the rear master cylinder to come down, so instead it moves up.
9. Attach the new Rear Brake Master Cylinder Support onto tPart #19 using the new M6 button head screw and Nylock nut. This is the orientation of the Rear Brake Master Cylinder Support.
10. Using the two factory rear master cylinder button head screws mount the master cylinder.
Note the Rear Brake Master Cylinder Support mounts to the back of Part #19 as shown in the photo below.
Note the Rear Brake Master Cylinder Support mounts to the back of Part #19 as shown in the photo below.
11. Move the rear brake switch wire behind out of the way of the plastic cover mounting hole.
12. Screw the new right side coupling nut onto the brake actuation rod until it touches the jam nut. Tighten the two together.
13. Install the M6 x 25 mm set screw half way into the new right side coupling nut using a 4 mm Allen wrench,.
12. Screw the new right side coupling nut onto the brake actuation rod until it touches the jam nut. Tighten the two together.
13. Install the M6 x 25 mm set screw half way into the new right side coupling nut using a 4 mm Allen wrench,.
14. Re-install the Yoke (Part #5).
15. Reconnect the rear brake lever to the brake actuation rod.
15. Reconnect the rear brake lever to the brake actuation rod.
16. Check proper actuation of the rear brake by depressing and releasing the brake lever. Adjust the position of the coupling nut and jam nut as needed.